Wood floor restoration, done properly

Gaps between old floorboards are usually the result of decades of seasonal movement — the timber shrinks in winter and swells in summer. Filling them properly means choosing a method that moves with the wood: we insert matching reclaimed timber slivers for wider gaps, and use flexible resin-based fillers coloured to your floor for fine ones.

Done well, gap filling stops the draughts, stops crumbs and dust disappearing into the void, and makes the floor far easier to keep clean. Done badly — with rigid filler — it cracks out within a season or two. We will also tell you honestly when a floor is better left unfilled: very wide seasonal gaps, and floors over poorly ventilated subfloors, are often best left to breathe.

Not every floor needs the full works. If your boards are level and the existing finish is simply tired, scratched or worn in the traffic paths, a light sanding (screening) removes just the top layer, and a fresh coat of hardwax oil or lacquer brings the colour and protection back.

The process is faster, cleaner and considerably cheaper than a full restoration, and because we are not removing much timber it can be repeated many times over the floor's life. Many of our customers book a refresh every three to five years and enjoy a floor that always looks newly finished.

A solid oak or iroko worktop is one of the hardest-working surfaces in a home, and after a few years of chopping, spills and hot pans it shows. Professional sanding takes out the scratches, stains and water marks, and fresh oil brings back the depth of colour that made you choose wood in the first place.

We finish with food-safe hardwax oils that resist water and daily wear, and we seal the end-grain and around sinks — the places where water always gets in first. The whole job typically takes a day, costs a fraction of replacement, and leaves you with a surface that looks freshly installed.